Wild Beginnings, Week one
- Sadie Beshears
- Feb 8
- 11 min read
The Master Keys
There are four master keys in our practice: The Method, The Formula, The Protocol, and The Energy. Together, they create a clear path of communication and connection between you and your dog.
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The Method
We work with three powerful approaches—capturing, luring, and shaping. Understanding how they differ gives you a deeper way to communicate with your dog.
• Capturing is noticing when your dog freely offers a behavior and acknowledging it with a marker and reward.
Examples: Your dog meets your gaze without being asked. They sit on their own. They choose to rest calmly on their bed. Each of these moments is an opportunity to capture and reward.
• Luring is guiding your dog with food, movement, or energy to encourage a desired action.
Examples: Using a treat to bring their head up and body into a sit. Extending your hand to lead them into a circle around you. Sometimes the lure is energetic—your presence and body language guiding the way.
• Shaping is rewarding the small, incremental steps toward a larger behavior.
Example: Before your dog can succeed in recall, they must first notice you. Reward the glance. Then the step. Then the quarter distance. Each stage is marked, building the full behavior with clarity and confidence.
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The Formula
Start with silence.
When introducing a new behavior, let your dog discover it through the method you choose—capturing, luring, or shaping.
Once the behavior is consistently offered—about 10–15 repetitions—you may introduce your cue. Words come last, layered gently onto what your dog already understands. In this way, cues are not commands barked into the void, but shared language, carrying meaning.
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The Protocol
Our protocol is the rhythm we follow in every teaching moment:
1. Observe – See where your dog is mentally, emotionally, and physically.
2. Guide – Choose the right method (capture, lure, or shape).
3. Mark – Clearly communicate the exact moment your dog makes the right choice.
4. Reward – Reinforce the behavior in a way that feels valuable to your dog.
5. Pause – Allow space. Integration happens in the quiet moments just as much as in the active ones.
Consistency in this cycle creates trust, reliability, and a language your dog can count on.
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The Energy
Energy is the foundation of all communication. Dogs feel the undercurrent before they notice the words or gestures.
Move with grounded intention. If you are scattered, your dog will be too. If you are calm, open, and clear, they will meet you in that steadiness.
• Breathe before you cue.
• Lead with presence, not pressure.
• Celebrate effort, not just perfection.
When your energy and intention align, training shifts from mechanics into relationship. This is where the magic lives—the alchemy between human and dog..
Conditioning your Mark;
What is a Marker?
A marker is simply a bridge. It is the clear signal that tells your dog, “Yes—this is the exact moment you did the right thing.”
In traditional clicker training, people often use a handheld clicker. But the truth is, your marker can be anything—your voice, a word, a soft sound. What matters is not the tool, but the meaning you place behind it.
Before it becomes a marker, it must first be conditioned. This means your dog learns that the sound or word is always followed by something rewarding—whether that’s food, praise, or even the release of pressure. The marker becomes a promise: “Reward is coming.”
Why it Matters
The marker closes the gap between confusion and clarity. It pinpoints the behavior that earned the reward.
Example: If my dog is conditioned to a clicker, I say “sit.” As their hips touch the ground, I click. That click tells them instantly—“Yes, that’s it.” The treat that follows confirms it. In this way, they not only understand what I wanted but also feel successful in giving it.
Conditioning Your Marker
We begin by teaching your dog that the marker itself means something good is on the way.
Present the mark (your chosen sound, word, or click).
Deliver the reward within 3 seconds.
No behavior is required at first—the only goal is building the association: marker = reward.
Timing is everything. When your marker is precise, your dog’s understanding becomes precise too.
Training Exercises to Condition the Marker
Use your marker and immediately drop a treat on the floor.
Mark and then roll the kibble or treat so your dog gets movement and reward.
Mark while delivering the treat by hand, along with soft praise or petting.
Practice your timing without your dog:
Example: Every time a car passes a light pole, use your marker word or click as the car lines up. This sharpens your timing so when you’re with your dog, your signals are clear and consistent.
The Goal
A strong marker system means your dog never has to wonder what earned the reward. The signal shines like a light in the moment of success—helping your dog learn faster, feel more confident, and deepen their trust in you.
Materials: small, soft high-value treats (cut into pea-size pieces), clicker or chosen marker word (e.g., “yes”), 6–10’ leash, a quiet room or fenced yard, a couple of short, playful toys.
Start & Release Cues • Eye Contact & Focus • Building
Objective
Teach your dog clear start and release cues while deepening voluntary eye contact and focus. Build value in training, improve engagement, and start proofing behaviors for reliability.
Part A — Start & Release Cues
Start Cue
Your start cue signals “Training is beginning — pay attention!”
Examples: Dog’s name, a kiss sound, whistle, “Ready.”
Condition the cue to mean eye contact + engagement.
Steps to condition:
Say your chosen start cue.
Present a high-value treat near your dog’s nose or engage them with a small hand gesture.
When they look at you, mark immediately and reward.
Repeat until the cue reliably signals “look at me, training starts.”
Release Cue
Your release cue signals “You’re done — move freely.”
Examples: “Free,” “All done,” “Woohoo!”
Steps to condition:
After a behavior is completed (sit, hand touch, eye contact), say the release cue in a cheerful tone.
Encourage the dog to leave your immediate space or move freely.
Mark and reward them for moving appropriately.
Repeat so the dog learns that release = freedom + reward.
Part B — Eye Contact & Focus
Introducing Eye Contact
Ensure both you and your dog are comfortable.
Hold a treat away from your face, inviting interest.
Wait patiently. The moment the dog chooses to look at you, mark (click or verbal marker) and reward. You have a 3-second window from marker to treat delivery.
Repeat until your dog voluntarily offers committed eye contact 100% of the time when food is present.
Increasing Difficulty / Requirements
Proof the behavior with distractions: different positions for you and your dog, toys, other food, people, dogs, new environments. Always mark and reward the desired behavior.
Increase commitment time gradually (“Slot Machine Style”): vary the schedule of reinforcement so the dog never knows exactly when a treat is coming. This builds longer, more motivated focus.
Part C — Eye Contact Game 1 (Rapid-Fire Game)
Goal: Build enthusiasm, quick engagement, and sustained attention.
Play for up to 3 minutes (use a timer).
Get comfortable with your dog.
Start the timer.
Initiate eye contact with your chosen cue (food, physical, or verbal).
Mark and reward immediately when the dog looks at you.
Repeat as quickly as possible — the dog may nibble or attempt to investigate the cue again.
Continue until the timer ends.
Release your dog after the game with your release cue.
✨ Tip: Keep sessions short and playful. The rapid-fire repetition builds engagement and makes eye contact a highly valued choice for your dog.
Key Notes
Start cue = attention / engagement
Release cue = freedom + reward
Eye contact is voluntary — you’re teaching the dog to choose you over distractions.
Slot-machine style reinforcement keeps your dog motivated and engaged.
Practice Plan for the Week
Daily: 2–3 short sessions (3–5 min) of start cue + eye contact + release cue.
Focus on: building voluntary engagement and commitment, gradually adding distractions.
End each session positively with release and play.
Touch
1. Choose a Target
Use your open hand as the target.
Keep your hand at the dog’s nose level and relaxed.
2. Capture or Lure the Behavior
Capture method: Wait for the dog to naturally touch your hand with their nose.
Lure method: Hold a treat in your hand and bring it toward the dog’s nose to encourage a touch.
3. Mark & Reward
The instant the dog touches your hand, mark immediately (“Yes!” / click).
Give a small treat or praise.
Timing is crucial to connect the touch to the reward.
4. Repeat in Short Sessions
Practice multiple times a day in short sessions (2–5 minutes).
Build reliability before adding distance or distractions.
5. Introduce the Cue Word
Once your dog consistently touches your hand, add a verbal cue “Touch” just before presenting your hand.
Mark and reward immediately upon touch.
6. Increase Distance
Gradually move your hand farther away from the dog.
Dog must move toward your hand to touch it.
Reward consistently for success.
7. Add Duration (Optional)
Ask the dog to hold the touch for 1–2 seconds before marking and rewarding.
Gradually increase duration as your dog becomes confident.
8. Generalize the Behavior
Practice in different locations and environments.
Use different hand positions (side, down, overhead) to make the behavior reliable.
9. Advanced Applications
Touch can be used for:
Guiding the dog through obstacle courses
Cueing focus before other commands (sit, down, recall)
Building foundation for targeting body parts or props
Remember
Present open palm 2–3 inches in front of the dog’s nose.
When they nudge your hand with their nose, mark and reward.
Repeat several times until consistent.
Add the verbal cue “Touch” while presenting your hand.
Gradually move hand to different positions, always marking the instant of nose contact.
💡 Wild Alchemy Tip:
Think of the hand target as a game of connection and focus. Keep it playful, fun, and rewarding—dogs learn fastest when engagement is voluntary and enjoyable.
Sit
1. Choose a Low-Distraction Environment
Indoors or a quiet area is ideal.
Keep high-value treats or a favorite toy ready for marking and reward.
2. Start with Your Dog Standing or at Heel
Have the dog standing calmly by your side.
Decide which side you want your dog to sit (usually left for heel position).
3. Lure or Capture the Sit
Lure method: Hold a treat above the dog’s nose and slowly move it backward over their head. The dog naturally sits to follow the treat.
Capture method: Mark and reward when the dog voluntarily sits on their own.
4. Mark & Reward
The instant the dog sits with correct posture, mark immediately (“Yes!” / click).
Reward with treat, praise, or gentle petting.
5. Introduce the Implied Stay
Once the dog sits, pause naturally for a brief moment (2–5 seconds).
Keep your body calm and neutral—do not physically hold the dog in place.
This begins the “implied stay,” where the dog learns to remain in position by choice.
6. Use a Release Cue
Release the dog with a cue such as “Free” or “All Done”.
This teaches the dog that staying is temporary and ends with a choice-based release.
7. Gradually Increase Duration
Slowly lengthen the implied stay in small increments.
Always reward calm, relaxed posture and focus.
8. Add Mild Distractions
Once reliable, practice around mild distractions: movement, toys, other people, or noises.
Reward for maintaining calm and staying in position.
9. Reinforce Reliability
Short, frequent sessions (2–5 minutes) are more effective than long sessions.
End sessions on a successful, positive note to keep the dog motivated.
💡 Wild Alchemy Tip:
The “implied stay” teaches self-control without pressure. The dog learns focus, patience, and trust in your guidance. Always let the dog feel in control of the release; it builds cooperation and willingness to follow future commands.
Remember
Ask for a sit.
Stand calmly for 1–2 seconds, then use release cue to allow movement.
Reward and celebrate when the dog moves appropriately.
Gradually increase sit duration in small increments.
If dog breaks early, calmly reset and retry.
Recall, "come"
1. Start in a Low-Distraction Environment
Begin indoors or a quiet backyard.
Have high-value treats or a favorite toy ready for marking and rewarding.
2. Choose a Recall Cue
Pick a clear verbal cue like “Come” or “Here”.
Always use the same cue consistently.
3. Short Distance, Positive Reinforcement
Start a few feet away from your dog.
Call your cue in an enthusiastic, happy tone.
Mark (“Yes!” / click) the instant the dog starts moving toward you.
Reward immediately when the dog reaches you.
4. Use a Long Line for Safety
Attach a 15–30 ft training line for controlled freedom.
Allows practice at greater distances while keeping the dog safe.
5. Gradually Increase Distance
Step back incrementally as your dog succeeds.
Always mark and reward for coming all the way.
6. Introduce Mild Distractions
Add small distractions: a toy, a treat on the ground, or quiet movement.
Call your dog away from the distraction.
Reward only when the dog comes directly to you.
7. Call from Passed Distractions
Place toys, treats, or a person between you and your dog.
Call your dog past the distraction.
Reward when the dog comes to you reliably.
8. Play Recall Games
Hide & Seek: One person hides; call the dog to find them.
Race to Owner: Another person runs away; call the dog and reward for coming.
Follow the Leader: Move around objects or people; dog must follow your cues.
9. Maintain High Value
Reward should be highly motivating: treat, play, or praise.
Never call your dog to punish—it must always be positive.
10. Practice Regularly
Short, frequent sessions (2–5 minutes) are ideal.
Gradually increase distance, distractions, and environments (indoor → backyard → quiet park → busier areas).
💡 Wild Alchemy Tip:
Recall is about making you the most rewarding choice. Use excitement, games, and high-value rewards to teach your dog that coming to you is always the best option, even with tempting distractions.
Remember
On-leash, short distance, low distractions.
Cue “Come!” (or chosen recall word) once.
Encourage approach with energy and body language.
Mark the instant they commit to coming, reward at arrival.
If the don’t come, apply leash pressure releasing the instance they make the right choice
Repeat short bursts; keep sessions 3–5 minutes.
Gradually increase distance and distractions.
Extra Tips
Active Engagement Through Capturing Behavior
During your dog’s free time, watch for and reward moments of engagement. Capturing behavior means marking and rewarding the dog when they choose to look at you or make eye contact, without prompting.
Why: This reinforces that seeking connection with you is valuable and rewarding.
Bean Bag Toss — Attention Game for Blind or Low-Visibility Dogs
Materials: hacky sack, lightly filled bean bag, or small objects like pebbles/dried beans
Steps:
Let your dog wander or sniff while attached to a long training lead.
Test their peripheral vision to see where their eyesight begins to fade. Make notes of their limitations.
Become almost out of sight. Toss the bean bag near their feet.
Mark and reward the instant your dog looks at you.
Once reliable, switch the object for something small and less enticing (pebble, dried beans).
Repeat several times a day until your dog checks in before the item is tossed consistently.
✨ Tip: This game builds voluntary attention, encourages self-initiated connection, and is a fun way to strengthen engagement.
Crazy 8’s — A Game for Active Engagement
Keep your dog alert and responsive:
Walk, briskly walk, jog, or run in figure-8 patterns.
Frequently switch directions and speeds.
Praise eye contact and proper heel position during loose-leash walking.
✨ Tip: Vary the pace and patterns to keep the dog thinking and engaged, making training fun and dynamic.
Initial 3-Week Supervision Protocol
Structured engagement and safety are essential for establishing connection.
Weeks 1–3 Breakdown:
Days 1–7:
Dog is always attached to a 6-ft leash when loose (inside or outside).
Purpose: Give both you and your dog time to naturally read each other’s body language.
Days 8–14:
Dog walks at your side, leash run through belt or clip but not taut.
Purpose: Simulates attachment; gives time to correct position if needed.
Days 15–21:
Leash is dragging while dog moves freely.
Dog should still stay at your side or designated “spots.”
If issues arise: return to step one and repeat.
Learn or Listen to Earn Program
Encourage learning outside formal training sessions:
Ask for a simple behavior (sit, down, etc.)
Praise briefly (3–5 seconds), no treats
Only offer petting if the dog has performed a command
✨ Tip: This teaches the dog that attention, connection, and behavior earn rewards, even during downtime.
Follow-the-Leader Games
Play with the dog and household members.
When the dog pushes ahead, excitedly change direction to encourage following.
Praise consistently whenever the dog maintains position behind or beside you.
Hide and Seek (Requires Two People)
Put the dog in a spot and instruct them to wait.
Person 2 hides while you guide the dog.
Cue the dog to “find” Person 2.
Start with easy hiding spots; gradually increase difficulty.
Support dog initially with body language or treats if needed.
Can also be played using toys instead of people.
✨ Tip: This strengthens focus, problem-solving, and recall in a fun, motivating way.
Summary
These extra tips and protocols help you:
Build voluntary engagement
Strengthen focus and attention
Teach dogs to follow and check in naturally
Encourage playful, relationship-based learning outside formal sessions
🌿 Remember: Consistency, timing, and making training playful are the keys to success.
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